A xeriscape costs more than a lawn to install and far less to own. Grass is the cheapest landscape to put in and one of the most expensive to keep: summer water, fertilizer, weed control, mowing and your weekends, every year. A xeriscape flips that. You pay once, roughly $5–$20 per square foot professionally or $1–$6 DIY, and then the annual bill drops to occasional deep watering, a spring cutback and some mulch. A lawn still wins in a couple of specific situations, and we cover those below.
What a lawn actually costs to own
Nobody itemizes their lawn, which is how it stays the default. The annual bill looks like this:
- Water, the big one. Across the U.S., outdoor use is more than 30% of household water on average and can reach 60% in arid regions, according to EPA WaterSense. In Colorado, CSU Extension notes that Kentucky bluegrass may need 2.5 inches of water or more per week in the heat of summer. Every inch on 1,000 square feet is about 623 gallons, so a 3,000-square-foot bluegrass lawn at 1.5 inches a week drinks roughly 2,800 gallons a week before you count sprinkler waste. Under tiered rates, that's the spike you see on your July bill.
- Inputs. Fertilizer several times a year, pre-emergent, broadleaf herbicide, grub control, aeration and overseeding. Each one is cheap. Together they recur forever.
- Equipment. A mower and trimmer, plus fuel, blades, tune-ups and eventual replacement.
- Your time. A cool-season lawn gets mowed most weeks from spring to fall, 25–30 times a year, plus edging and cleanup. Put your own hourly value on that.

EPA also estimates that as much as 50% of outdoor water is lost to wind, evaporation and runoff from inefficient irrigation. Spray heads on turf are where most of that happens.
What a xeriscape costs to own
The install is the expensive part: roughly $5–$20 per square foot professionally, or $1–$6 DIY. The full cost breakdown covers the line items, and the per-square-foot guide shows how plant density, hardscape and irrigation move the number. After the first year of establishment, the annual ledger gets quiet:
- Water: CSU Extension estimates xeriscaping can lower outdoor water use by 30–50% or more, depending on how much you water now (how much water xeriscaping saves). Established beds on drip need occasional deep soakings, and many mature natives need little beyond rainfall in a normal year.
- Inputs: no fertilizer program and no turf herbicides. Most xeric perennials do better in lean soil. Mulch gets topped up every few years.
- Time: a few focused sessions per season (the maintenance calendar lays them out) instead of a weekly appointment.
- Rebates: many western utilities pay you to remove turf. Amounts and rules change often, so check the current figures in the lawn-removal rebate guide or the state pages for Colorado and California, and apply before you dig.
Side by side: the ownership ledger
| Kentucky bluegrass lawn | Established xeriscape | |
|---|---|---|
| Install cost | Low (seed or sod) | $5–$20/sq ft pro, $1–$6/sq ft DIY |
| Summer water | Up to 2.5+ in/week in heat (CSU); about 3 days a week in midsummer | About once a week to twice a month or less, depending on the plant |
| Fertilizer and weed control | Several applications a year | Rarely; spot-weed and mulch |
| Mowing and edging | 25–30 times a year | None; one spring cutback |
| Equipment | Mower, trimmer, fuel | Pruners, a hose-end or drip timer |
| Rebate eligibility | None | Often eligible for turf-replacement rebates |
| Where it wins | Play, pets, sports | Everything you mostly look at |
The watering-frequency figures come from Colorado Springs Utilities' plant ratings: bluegrass needs watering about three days a week in midsummer, while its lowest-water plants need watering twice a month or less once established.
How to work out your own payback
Skip the generic "pays for itself in X years" claims. Your number depends on local water rates, how much turf you convert, and whether you DIY. The math is simple:
- Annual lawn cost: your summer water bill minus your winter bill (that difference is roughly your outdoor use), plus what you spend on lawn care inputs and service.
- Annual xeriscape cost: roughly half to two-thirds of that water figure (a 30–50% cut), plus mulch every few years.
- Net install cost: the install quote minus any rebate.
- Payback years = net install cost ÷ (annual lawn cost − annual xeriscape cost).
A rebate shortens payback the most, and rate increases shorten it every year after. The water savings calculator runs the water side for you.
The non-money columns
- Habitat: a lawn monoculture feeds almost nothing. A planted xeriscape with penstemon, blanket flower and native grasses is pollinator habitat with seedheads and winter structure.
- Noise and emissions: dropping the weekly mow is a gift to you and everyone within earshot.
- Resale: buyers in dry markets increasingly see a finished, planted xeriscape as a feature. We cover the evidence in does xeriscaping increase home value.
- Looks: a good xeriscape is a garden, not a yard of gravel.
Where the lawn still wins
- Play surface. Kids, dogs, lawn games. Nothing beats turf underfoot, and no serious xeriscaper argues otherwise.
- Upfront cost. Seed is nearly free and sod is cheap per foot. If you're selling next year, grass is the budget move.
- Familiarity. Everyone knows how to mow. A xeriscape asks you to learn a plant palette, once.
The answer most yards want: both, resized
This isn't all or nothing. Keep a right-sized lawn where you actually use it, and convert everything else: the front yard that exists only to be looked at, the hell strip, side yards and slopes. That's turf as a feature instead of a default, which is exactly what the 7 principles of xeriscaping prescribe.
If you want green underfoot on less water, a warm-season native lawn is the middle path. Colorado Springs Utilities rates buffalograss at about one-third of the water of a traditional bluegrass lawn, and blue grama is similar. Our buffalograss and blue grama lawn guide covers seeding and mowing.

From our installs: on the Front Range, the most common plan we build keeps a modest patch of turf in the backyard for kids or dogs and converts the front yard and parkway entirely. Two things surprise people. First, the water savings don't show up in year one, because new plants need regular establishment watering through their first summer; the drop comes in year two. Second, the lawn that remains usually looks better, because it's now small enough to water and aerate properly instead of stretching a sprinkler budget across the whole lot.
Frequently asked questions
Is xeriscaping cheaper than grass?
Not up front. A lawn is cheaper to install, often by a wide margin. Over time the xeriscape is usually cheaper to own because it uses far less water, needs no fertilizer or mowing, and may qualify for a turf-replacement rebate that offsets part of the install.
How much water does a lawn use compared to a xeriscape?
CSU Extension notes Kentucky bluegrass can need 2.5 inches or more of water per week in summer heat, about 1,560 gallons per 1,000 square feet each week. CSU Extension estimates xeriscaping lowers outdoor water use by 30–50% or more, and much of that comes from replacing turf and switching spray heads to drip.
Can I keep part of my lawn and still get a rebate?
Yes, a partial conversion is how most people start. Whether the converted area qualifies, and for how much, depends on your utility's rules, so check the rebate finder and get pre-approval before you remove anything.
Is artificial turf a better way to save water?
It removes lawn irrigation, but it brings its own trade-offs: surface heat, drainage, cleaning and eventual replacement. We compare it head to head in artificial turf pros and cons. For most yards, a planted xeriscape with a small real lawn is the better long-term buy.

