Xeriscaping is designing a landscape to thrive on little or no supplemental water by working with your local climate instead of against it. In practice, that means climate-adapted plants grouped by water need, drip irrigation instead of spray heads, mulch over bare soil, and lawn only where you actually use it. CSU Extension defines it as a set of landscaping techniques that reduce the need for irrigation and estimates it can cut outdoor water use by 30–50% or more. It is not a yard of rocks. A good xeriscape is planted, colorful and alive. This guide covers the core ideas, the costs, easy starter plants and a first project you can finish in a weekend or two.
Where the word comes from
Denver Water coined "xeriscape" in 1981, combining "landscape" with the Greek xeros, meaning dry. It's pronounced ZEER-uh-scaping. The "zero-scaping" mispronunciation stuck to the gravel-only look, which is a different thing entirely (xeriscaping vs. zeroscaping).
The seven principles, in one minute
Every good low-water landscape follows the same seven principles:
- Plan and design first. Map sun, shade, slope, drainage and how you use the space.
- Improve the soil, selectively. Amend for the plants you chose. Many natives prefer lean soil.
- Keep turf practical. Lawn where you walk or play, not as wall-to-wall carpet.
- Choose the right plants. Native and climate-adapted species rated for your zone.
- Water efficiently. Drip at the roots, run long and infrequently.
- Mulch. A 3–4 inch layer of wood or gravel over bare soil.
- Maintain appropriately. Less work than a lawn, but not none, especially in year one.
Each one is explained in detail in the 7 principles of xeriscaping.
How xeriscaping saves water
Three things do the heavy lifting:
- Plant choice. A native grass or shrub adapted to your rainfall simply needs less. CSU horticulturist John Murgel notes that many xeric plants can thrive on natural precipitation alone once established.
- Delivery. Drip puts water on the root zone instead of the sidewalk. Skip soaker hoses, which CSU notes release water unevenly along their length.
- Mulch. A mulch layer slows evaporation and keeps weeds from stealing water. CSU recommends most mulches, including wood chips and pea gravel, at 3 to 4 inches.
Stack those together and CSU's 30–50% reduction in outdoor water is realistic; the water savings guide goes deeper.
Know your zone before you buy a single plant
The most common beginner mistake is buying plants that can't survive your winters, or your summers. Look up your zone on the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map; our hardiness zone guide explains how to read it. Zone tells you about winter cold. For summer heat and water, pick plants proven in your region.
Easy starter plants
These are forgiving, widely available and proven across much of the Intermountain West and Front Range. Zones are the conservative end of the ranges in our plant data.
| Plant | Type | Water once established | Zones |
|---|---|---|---|
| Blanket flower | Perennial | Very low | 3–8 |
| Rocky Mountain penstemon | Perennial | Very low | 4–9 |
| Catmint | Perennial | Low | 3–8 |
| Russian sage | Perennial | Very low | 4–9 |
| Little bluestem | Grass | Very low | 3–9 |
| Blue grama | Grass | Very low | 3–10 |
| Rabbitbrush | Shrub | Very low | 4–9 |
| Hardy ice plant | Groundcover | Very low | 5–9 |
| Hens-and-chicks | Succulent | Very low | 3–8 |
The Plant Finder filters dozens more by zone, sun and water. For a longer list, see drought-tolerant perennials.
What it costs
Professional installs commonly run $5–$20 per square foot, and DIY runs $1–$6, depending on how much hardscape, plant density and irrigation work is involved. The cost guide and per-square-foot breakdown cover the line items. Many western water utilities offer turf-replacement rebates. Amounts change often, so check current figures in the lawn-removal rebate guide, and apply before you remove any grass, because most programs require pre-approval.
A simple first project
Don't renovate the whole yard at once. Try this:
- Pick one thirsty, low-use area. A hot hell strip or a patchy lawn corner is ideal.
- Sketch it. Note sun hours and where water pools or runs off.
- Remove the grass. Sod-cut it for a fast start, or sheet mulch in fall for a spring planting (how to remove a lawn).
- Prepare the soil for your plants. Loosen compacted soil. Add compost only if your plant list calls for it; many natives prefer lean soil (soil prep guide).
- Choose 3–5 adapted plants in varied heights and bloom times, plus a groundcover. Buy small; they establish faster.
- Group by water need so you're not overwatering the tough ones to keep the tender ones alive.
- Install drip and put it on a timer (drip install guide).
- Mulch 3–4 inches around, not against, the plants.
- Water regularly while establishing, then taper as roots go deep (first-year care).
What to expect over the first three years
- Year one: plants look small and spaced out. They're growing roots, not tops. Water regularly and weed.
- Year two: plants fill in noticeably and bloom harder. Start stretching the time between waterings.
- Year three: the bed looks finished, and most xeric plants need only occasional deep soakings in the heat.
When you're ready to go bigger, 10 Steps to Xeriscaping turns this into a whole-yard sequence, and backyard xeriscape ideas has layouts to borrow.
From our installs: beginners on the Front Range usually make one of two mistakes. They space plants for the nursery-pot size instead of the mature size, so the bed is crowded by year three. Or they water the new xeriscape like a lawn, a little every day, which keeps roots shallow and invites rot in clay. Plant at mature spacing, fill the gaps with mulch, and water deeply and less often. The bed will look sparse for a season and far better after that.
Frequently asked questions
What is xeriscaping in simple terms?
It's landscaping built around the water your climate naturally provides: plants adapted to your region, grouped by water need, watered efficiently with drip, and covered with mulch. The goal is a yard that looks good with little or no irrigation once established.
Is xeriscaping just rocks and cactus?
No. That gravel-heavy look is zeroscaping. A real xeriscape is densely planted with perennials, grasses and shrubs and can be as colorful as any traditional garden. Rock is used as mulch and accent, not as the whole design.
How much does xeriscaping cost for a beginner?
A DIY bed typically runs $1–$6 per square foot, depending on plants, mulch and irrigation; professional installs run $5–$20. Starting small and adding a section each year keeps costs manageable, and a turf-replacement rebate can offset part of it.
Can I keep some lawn?
Yes. Keep a practical patch for kids or pets and xeriscape the rest. That's exactly what the "practical turf areas" principle recommends.
When is the best time to start a xeriscape?
Plan in winter, remove grass in fall (sheet mulching) or spring (sod cutting), and plant in spring or early fall when temperatures are mild. Fall planting gives roots time to grow before summer heat (fall planting guide).
