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Rock Garden Design: How to Do Stone Right

The difference between a rock garden and a pile of rocks is design. How to bury and group boulders, build a crevice garden, mix the soil, and pick plants that make stone look like it grew there.

By Tim WoodringUpdated 7 min read
Natural boulder steps integrated into a designed rock garden landscape
Photo: Xeris Landscaping

Good rock garden design comes down to one thing: the rocks should look discovered, not placed. Bury them deep, use one kind of stone, group them the way nature does, and plant tight against them in fast-draining soil. Get the stone right and everything else, from the planting to the paths, reads as intentional. Get it wrong and no amount of flowers rescues it. This guide covers boulder placement, crevice gardens, soil, a plant palette with hardiness zones, and upkeep.

Placing the stone

Bury every boulder a third to a half deep

The biggest tell of an amateur rock garden is boulders sitting on the ground like dropped marbles. Natural rock emerges from the earth. Dig each boulder in by a third to half its height, widest face down, and tilt it slightly back into the slope. It hurts to pay for stone you then bury, but that's what makes it look real, and it keeps the rock from rolling.

Use one stone type, in a few big pieces

Nature doesn't mix granite, sandstone and lava rock in one outcrop, so don't either. Choose one stone that occurs in your region and stick to it for boulders, steppers and gravel. Favor fewer, larger rocks: three big boulders in an odd-numbered group beat thirty softball-sized stones scattered everywhere. Rough rule for scale: your largest boulder should be big enough that it takes equipment or two strong people to move.

Line up the grain

Most stone has layers or veins. Set every rock so its strata run in the same direction and at the same angle, as if they were all part of one buried bedrock layer that's been exposed. This one detail separates a designed outcrop from a pile.

Boulder steps climbing a slope between planted beds to a deck, with lawn at the base
Boulder steps and outcrop stones buried deep into a slope, planted along both sides. — Photo: Xeris Landscaping

Design the voids

The planting pockets between stones are the actual garden. Vary them: deep pockets for anchor plants, narrow crevices for cushion plants, gravel flats for spreaders. South faces of boulders create hot pockets for heat lovers; north faces stay cooler and hold moisture a little longer. One rock group gives you several microclimates.

Crevice gardens: the modern rock garden

A crevice garden uses flat stones set on edge, packed closely, with narrow gaps of gritty soil between them. The North American Rock Garden Society describes it as upright, tilted rocks with small crevices between them where roots can run deep and crowns stay dry. The format suits the dry West perfectly: plants root down into the cool, moist soil under the stone and never sit in wet mulch.

  • Stone: flat slabs 2 to 6 inches thick (flagstone or split sandstone), set vertically or leaning, with gaps of roughly an inch or two.
  • Soil: a lean mix of mostly sand or fine gravel with a little native soil, packed firmly into every gap.
  • Scale: anything from a hillside to a trough on the patio. A 4-by-8-foot mound is a good first project.
  • Top dressing: fine gravel or crushed stone matching the slabs.
Newly planted crevice garden with upright stone slabs and small alpine plants in the gaps
A crevice garden right after planting: slabs set on edge, and every gap between them is a planting pocket. — Photo: nc.hort, CC BY 2.0
Hens-and-chicks rosettes growing between upright tan stone slabs
Hens-and-chicks tucked between upright slabs, crowns dry and roots deep in the gap. — Photo: Xeris Landscaping
Mature crevice garden with dianthus and alpine plants blooming among upright stone slabs
The same style of crevice garden a season later: plants hugging stone, and the whole composition reading like it grew there. — Photo: nc.hort, CC BY 2.0

Drainage: the invisible ingredient

Classic rock garden plants come from mountains and steppes, and those places drain. If you're on clay, build up rather than digging down: mound gritty soil 12 to 18 inches high and set your stones into the mound. A 1- to 2-inch layer of gravel on top keeps crowns dry and finishes the look. Wood mulch is wrong here; it holds moisture against crowns and floats away (see gravel vs. wood mulch).

Gentle gravel slope with scattered flat stones and low cushion plants beside a paver walk
A steppe-style slope in a botanic garden: flat stones half-buried in gravel with low cushion plants between them. — Photo: Xeris Landscaping

The planting palette

Rock gardens want plants that echo mountain and steppe: low, mounding, tough and quick-draining. These are reliable in the cold West; the zones below are the conservative figures we use.

PlantZonesWaterHeightRole
Hens-and-chicks (Sempervivum tectorum)3–8Very low3–6 inCrevice rosettes
Turquoise Tails blue sedum (Sedum sediforme)5–9Very low8–12 inBlue crevice accent
Hardy ice plant (Delosperma cooperi)5–9Very low3–6 inCarpet, summer color
Creeping veronica (Veronica liwanensis)3–8Low1–2 inFlat mat, spring blue
Sulphur buckwheat (Eriogonum umbellatum)4–8Very low6–12 inMat, yellow pom-poms
Bath's Pink dianthus (Dianthus gratianopolitanus)3–9Low6–10 inFragrant cushions
Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus)4–9Very low24–30 inSpring spikes
Claret cup cactus (Echinocereus triglochidiatus)5–9Very low6–12 inSculptural bloom
Blue oat grass (Helictotrichon sempervirens)4–8Low18–30 inBlue texture
Panchito manzanita (Arctostaphylos × coloradensis)4–8Very low10–15 inEvergreen groundcover

A few notes on the picks. Plant Select rates Turquoise Tails sedum to zone 5a, so we don't push it colder. Hardy ice plant needs winter cold but hates winter-wet soil; Plant Select's list of truly hardy ice plants is the place to find selections for tougher sites. For sculptural accents, add a dwarf conifer (mugo pine or a dwarf spruce), a yucca, or cold-hardy cactus. For seasonal color in larger pockets, compact forms of the drought-tolerant perennials work well, and CSU Extension's ground cover fact sheet lists more low spreaders for Colorado conditions.

Hens-and-chicks and sedum growing tightly packed in a rock crevice
Crevice specialists at work: hens-and-chicks and sedum colonizing the gap between two stones. — Photo: Patrick Standish, CC BY 2.0

Plant tight against the stone. Plants hugging rock look established; plants floating in the middle of a gravel pocket look new forever. Cactus and cushion plants can go right into a pocket in a boulder if there's a little gritty soil beneath.

Silver-spined cushion cactus planted in a pocket of red lava rock
A silver-spined cushion cactus planted directly into a pocket in a red lava boulder. — Photo: Xeris Landscaping

Troughs: a rock garden on the patio

No room, or no slope? A trough or wide, shallow concrete bowl filled with gritty mix and a few small stones becomes a miniature rock garden at eye level. It's also the easiest way to grow tiny plants that would get lost in the ground. Drill drainage holes, use a mix of roughly half grit, and top-dress with fine gravel.

Shallow concrete trough planted with yellow daisies, red rock and small succulents in a gravel garden
A shallow concrete trough planted with yellow daisies, red rock and small succulents, set into a gravel garden. — Photo: Xeris Landscaping

Steps, paths and function

The best rock gardens do a job: boulder steps up a slope, a flagstone path through the planting, a sitting rock placed where the view is. A grade change isn't a problem to fix; it's where the rock garden wants to go. Slopes have their own guide: xeriscaping a slope.

Front yard rock garden with boulders, gravel and a low dry-stacked stone wall in front of a house
A front yard rock garden: boulders and small plants in gravel behind a low dry-stacked wall. — Photo: Xeris Landscaping

Getting started

Sketch the outcrop first. Source local stone in mixed sizes, bigger than feels comfortable. Set and bury the three largest stones before anything else, then build pockets and plant. Water new plantings carefully the first summer, then back off. For bigger layouts, see rock landscaping ideas (coming in December), and browse xeriscaping ideas and inspiration for combinations. If you're in southern Colorado, our xeriscaping in Colorado Springs guide covers local stone and plants.

From our installs

On the Front Range we set boulders with a skid steer or by hand with bars and rollers, and we always dig them in before any planting starts, because moving a boulder after planting wrecks everything around it. Clay soil is the main enemy: rock garden plants set straight into clay rot over a wet winter, so we build raised mounds of gritty mix and plant crowns slightly high. First-year watering is light and deep, about once a week in summer for small cushion plants, tapering to nothing by fall. Hail rarely hurts rock garden plants much; they're low and tough. What kills them is kindness: rich soil, wood mulch and too much water. (Xeris Landscaping is owned by Xeriscaping.com's founder.)

Frequently asked questions

How deep should I bury boulders in a rock garden?

A third to half of their height, widest side down, tilted slightly back into the slope. This looks natural and keeps them stable.

What soil is best for a rock garden?

A lean, fast-draining mix: roughly half grit (sand, squeegee or crushed gravel) with native soil. Avoid compost-rich topsoil, which keeps crowns too wet.

What's the difference between a rock garden and a crevice garden?

A crevice garden is a type of rock garden that uses flat stones set on edge, close together, with narrow soil-filled gaps. It gives plants deep, cool root runs and very dry crowns.

Should I put landscape fabric under a rock garden?

Generally no. Fabric stops plants from spreading and seeding, and soil blows onto it over time so weeds grow on top anyway. Deep gravel and hand-weeding in the first two years work better.

When is the best time to build a rock garden?

Set the stone any time the ground is workable. Plant in spring or early fall; fall planting of cactus and succulents is riskier in cold climates.

Written by

Tim Woodring

Denver, Colorado

Founder of Xeriscaping.com and Xeris Landscaping, a Front Range xeriscape design-build company. Writes about low-water landscapes that actually work in the American West.