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Cold-Hardy Agave and Yucca for Northern Gardens

You don't need a Tucson ZIP code for sculptural desert drama. These cold-hardy yuccas take zone 3 and 4 winters, and a few agaves survive colder than their ratings, if you get the drainage right.

By Tim WoodringUpdated 6 min read
Large agave rosette in a gravel xeriscape with a boulder, rock-lined beds and small barrel cacti

Nothing says "desert" like the sculptural rosette of an agave or the evergreen sword-fan of a yucca, and nothing surprises visitors more than seeing one under a foot of Colorado snow. Several yuccas are fully hardy to zones 3 and 4. Agaves are more marginal: Havard agave is rated zones 5–9, but it's hardy in zone 5 only with sharp drainage and dry winters, and the Missouri Botanical Garden rates both Parry's and Havard agave zones 7–10. Gardeners in the dry interior West grow both in zone 6 and sheltered zone 5b spots. What decides success in cold climates is winter wet, not cold alone, so the planting method below matters as much as the plant list.

A hardy agave in gritty soil on a south-facing slope can come through a cold snap that kills the same plant sitting in flat, damp clay. Drainage decides everything.

At a glance

PlantZonesWaterSizeNotes
Soapweed yucca (Yucca glauca)3–8Very low2–3 ft, bloom stalks 3–4 ftHardiest yucca; native to the Plains
Adam's needle (Yucca filamentosa)4–10Very low2–3 ft, spikes to 6 ftSoft leaf tips; takes humidity
Banana yucca (Yucca baccata)5–9Very low2–3 ftBroad blue blades, edible fruit
Beaked yucca (Yucca rostrata)6–9Very lowTrunk to 6 ft+ over decadesSilver pom-pom; warmest spot
Red yucca (Hesperaloe parviflora)5–10Very low3 ft, bloom to 5 ftNot a true yucca; hummingbirds
Havard agave (Agave havardiana)5–9*Very low2–3 ftLargest blue agave for cold gardens
Parry's agave (Agave parryi)6–9*Very low1.5–2 ftCompact artichoke form

*MBG rates both agaves zones 7–10. Havard agave is rated 5–9, but it's hardy in zone 5 only with sharp drainage and dry winters. For Parry's, zone 6 is our working figure for dry, well-drained Western sites; zone 5 is an experiment.

Cold-hardy yuccas

1. Soapweed yucca (Yucca glauca)

Zones 3–8 · Water Very low · Size 2–3 ft rosettes, bloom stalks 3–4 ft · Bloom Early summer, cream bells

The hardiest yucca. The Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center maps its native range north to Montana, Alberta and Saskatchewan, which is zone 3 country. Narrow blue-green leaves and tall towers of cream bells. It's native across the Front Range and Great Plains.

Care tip: Cut the spent bloom stalk at the base in fall; leave the old leaves as winter protection.

Soapweed yucca (Yucca glauca)
Yucca glauca

2. Adam's needle (Yucca filamentosa)

Zones 4–10 · Water Very low · Size 2–3 ft rosettes, flower spikes to 6 ft · Bloom Summer, creamy white

The garden-center standard, and one of the few yuccas happy in humid-summer states. Soft-leaf yucca has flexible leaf tips, so it's safer near paths. 'Color Guard' adds a gold stripe that glows in winter.

Care tip: Pull off dead lower leaves in spring for a clean rosette.

Adam's needle (Yucca filamentosa)
Yucca filamentosa — Photo: blumenbiene, CC BY

3. Banana yucca (Yucca baccata)

Zones 5–9 · Water Very low · Size 2–3 ft rosettes · Bloom Late spring, cream to purple-tinged, then fleshy fruit

Broad, stiff, blue-toned blades and fat banana-shaped fruit. It's native from Texas to Colorado, Utah and Nevada, and has real presence in a gravel garden.

Care tip: The leaf tips are needle-sharp; plant it at least 3 feet from paths.

4. Beaked yucca (Yucca rostrata)

Zones 6–9 · Water Very low · Size Trunk slowly to 6 ft or more · Bloom Summer, white, on mature plants

The one everybody wants: a trunk-forming silver pom-pom. The Missouri Botanical Garden rates the 'Sapphire Skies' selection zones 5–10; we use zone 6 as the safe line for the species and give it the warmest, driest spot you have in zone 5.

Care tip: Buy the biggest trunked plant you can afford; it grows slowly.

Beaked yucca (Yucca rostrata)
Yucca rostrata

5. Red yucca (Hesperaloe parviflora)

Zones 5–10 · Water Very low · Size 3 ft clump, bloom stalks to 5 ft · Bloom Late spring to fall, coral-red

The honorary yucca: grassy evergreen leaves and coral bloom wands all summer, loved by hummingbirds. The Missouri Botanical Garden rates red yucca zones 5–10; in zone 5 give it reflected heat and fast drainage.

Care tip: Remove spent stalks at the base; never cut the foliage.

Red yucca (Hesperaloe parviflora)
Hesperaloe parviflora — Photo: cultivar413, CC BY

For rock gardens and troughs, the dwarf Yucca harrimaniae, native to western Colorado and Utah, makes softball-sized rosettes and follows the same rules.

Cold-hardy agaves

6. Havard agave (Agave havardiana)

Zones 5–9; hardy in zone 5 only with sharp drainage and dry winters (MBG: 7–10) · Water Very low · Size 2–3 ft rosette · Bloom Once, after many years

The big blue one: broad silver-blue rosettes from the high mountains of West Texas, and the best large agave for cold gardens. Our cold-hardy agave page rates it zones 5–9, and in the dry interior West it's grown in zone 6 and protected zone 5b sites. It's hardy in zone 5 only with sharp drainage and dry winters, which is why the Missouri Botanical Garden, rating for wetter conditions, lists it at zones 7–10. Expect losses in wet winters.

Care tip: Plant it on a mound or slope in half-grit soil, facing south or west.

Havard agave (Agave havardiana)
Agave havardiana — Photo: Geoff Gallice, CC BY

7. Parry's agave (Agave parryi)

Zones 6–9 (MBG: 7–10) · Water Very low · Size 1.5–2 ft · Bloom Once, after many years

The tight, symmetrical artichoke-form classic. The Missouri Botanical Garden rates it zones 7–10. High-elevation forms, such as A. parryi var. couesii and plants grown from northern Arizona seed, are the ones to seek out for colder gardens.

Care tip: Ask your nursery where the plant's parents came from; provenance matters more than the tag.

Parry's agave (Agave parryi)
Agave parryi

Two smaller natives are worth trying once you've succeeded with Parry's: New Mexico agave (Agave neomexicana), native to the mountains of southern New Mexico and West Texas, and Utah agave (Agave utahensis), a small, fiercely spined Great Basin species that demands near-perfect drainage. Neither has a major-garden zone rating we could verify, so treat them as zone 6 plants and experiment in 5b.

Agaves are monocarpic: after 10 to 30 years, a rosette sends up a huge bloom stalk and dies, usually leaving pups around the base.

Planting them to survive winter

  1. Build a mound or plant a slope. Even 8 to 12 inches of elevation sheds the winter moisture that kills these plants. South or west exposure is ideal.
  2. Make the soil about half grit. Blend coarse sand, squeegee or fine gravel into native soil, and skip compost (see xeriscape soil prep).
  3. Mulch with gravel only. Wood mulch holds damp against the crown (gravel vs. wood mulch).
  4. Plant in late spring, so roots have a full warm season before their first winter. Water weekly the first summer, then taper to almost nothing; established plants need little or no irrigation.
  5. Keep winter water off agaves. In wet-snow climates, a spot under a deep eave, or a simple rain shelter for a prized specimen, helps more than any hardiness rating.

Designing with them

Use agaves and yuccas as exclamation points, not the whole sentence: one agave anchoring a rock garden, a trio of yuccas punctuating a sweep of groundcovers, red yucca lining a hot driveway. Their evergreen structure carries the winter garden while the perennials sleep, which is exactly what zone 5 and zone 6 xeriscapes struggle to do any other way. Keep spiny plants well back from paths. For more desert looks, see desert landscaping ideas; in southern Utah's warmer climate, xeriscaping in St. George opens up many more agaves.

From our installs

On the Front Range, yuccas are close to foolproof; soapweed yucca is native here. Agaves are where we're careful. We only plant them on raised, gritty mounds with a south or west exposure, never at the bottom of a slope or near a downspout, and never with wood mulch. We plant in May or June, water weekly through the first summer, then stop by late August. Hail punctures and scars agave leaves every few years; it's cosmetic, and the rosette grows past it. The losses we see are almost always from winter-wet soil, not cold. (Xeris Landscaping is owned by Xeriscaping.com's founder.)

Frequently asked questions

What is the most cold-hardy agave?

Among widely available species, Havard agave and Parry's agave (especially high-elevation forms). Havard agave is rated zones 5–9, but it's hardy in zone 5 only with sharp drainage and dry winters. The Missouri Botanical Garden rates both zones 7–10, yet both survive zone 6 in dry, well-drained Western sites.

What is the most cold-hardy yucca?

Soapweed yucca (Yucca glauca), native north into Canada, is hardy to zone 3. Adam's needle is hardy to zone 4.

Should I cover agaves in winter?

Keeping them dry matters more than keeping them warm. A rain or snow shelter over a prized agave can help in wet climates; wrapping them in fabric traps moisture and can cause rot.

When should I plant agave and yucca?

Late spring to early summer, so roots establish in warm soil before winter.

For spiny companions that share this planting recipe, see cold-hardy cactus.

Written by

Tim Woodring

Denver, Colorado

Founder of Xeriscaping.com and Xeris Landscaping, a Front Range xeriscape design-build company. Writes about low-water landscapes that actually work in the American West.